Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 38 review

This one has been a long time coming. I am a big fan of field watches and while I do have several from the likes of Orient, Orient Star and even the iconic Seiko SARB017 Alpinist, the Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 is the one that currently stands out the most for me. Out of my field watches, it is the one that spends the most time on my wrist and is in fact somewhat a grail of mine. Here’s why.

Specs
Case size: 38mm
Lug to lug: 46mm
Lug width: 20mm
Thickness: 11mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Glass: Sapphire Crystal
Caseback: Screw stainless steel
Movement: H10 (Automatic, Hacking, Hand-winding)
Complications: Seconds, Minutes, Hours, Date
Power Reserve: 80 hours
VPH: 21600
Jewels: 25
Water Resistance: 100m
RRP: USD$802 / SGD$1050
Reference: H70455133

Overview
Without a doubt, the Hamilton name is synonymous with military issue watches as it was one of the original manufacturers of standardised military watches for American soldiers during WWII. While it is no longer American owned and now considered a Swiss brand under the Swatch Group, their history remains intact and is still very much a part of their DNA (and marketing).

Although not the closest model to their original WWII era watches(the Khaki Field Mechanical takes that spot), the Khaki Field Automatic is very much a modern evolution of that original 34mm field watch design. Where it was originally a manual wind with a completely brushed metal case and mineral glass, it is now updated with automatic winding, a sapphire crystal and a mirror polished bezel that is more suited to post-war office environments than rocky fields. Do not be fooled by this though as this is still a very capable field watch, and one that I’ve been putting through the wringer over the past year.

Case
We have a case that is 38mm in diameter. There is a larger 42mm version but because Hamilton’s tend to have pretty long lugs, many people with smaller wrists like myself will struggle to pull it off well. The 38mm version is perfect for those with smaller wrists as the lug to lug distance is only 46mm as opposed to 52mm on the larger version. 

One interesting thing to note is that although it is a slightly thicker 11mm than the mechanical version at 9.75mm, the added thickness actually helps it to wear smaller as it gives the lugs a more angled down effect as opposed to a flatter shape on the mechanical.

The finishing on the case is mostly brushed with the exception of a mirror polished bezel. This is often a point of criticism and I can totally understand why given how easily it scratches (it really does) as it is supposed to be a tool watch. I personally like this though as I feel it gives it a more “Officer’s watch” kind of feel, something a bit more dressy that can be worn in the office but still perfectly capable of getting down and dirty out in the field should the need arise. Not to mention the rugged and worn look it creates over time really gives the watch a very personal feel, almost patina-like, if you’re into that sort of thing.

No crown guards here, just a large, easy to use signed crown thanks to its size and flat coin edge. This is a push-pull crown, not a screw down crown but that’s fairly common for field watches. It still manages to achieve 100m of water resistance which is pretty adequate for a field watch. While I’ve not gone actual swimming with it before (I’ve not gone swimming in a long time really), it’s been exposed to running water, rain, engine oil, radiator fluid, etc. and has remained unfazed.

The watch is topped off with a very elegant domed sapphire crystal that flows down nicely joining a tapered bezel. The crystal does lack anti-reflective coating which is another common point of criticism especially on a field watch. However like the polished bezel, it also adds some shine to the watch putting it on the more dressy side of things along with the polished bezel. Again, some may like this while others may not, you pick your poison. I personally have not had any major issues with reflections and legibility and I attribute that to the dial which I’ll explain in a bit.

Lastly on the back we have an exhibition caseback displaying the ETA based H10 movement and decorated rotor. Perhaps not the most common for a tool watch but it does follow the dressier design aesthetic of this watch.

Dial
At first glance the dial may not seem particularly sophisticated however if you look closer you’ll realise that quite a lot of work has gone into making it. While the true originals had a plain matte dial, this one actually contains three different finishes. 

First off, the outer minute track features a smooth matt black surface with a printed chapter ring. Moving further in we have an hour track that is finished with radial grooves cut into it and lumed hour markers printed on. I mentioned earlier about how legible this watch is and that is largely because of how well these radial grooves capture and reflect light at a different angle from the rest of the dial. This creates a strong visual separation that makes the hour markers stand out even in bright light despite the lack of AR coating.

Moving in right to the centre we have the inner dial where 24 hour markings and the Hamilton script are printed onto a subtle sunburst finished dial. I think this section really helps to complete the watch and give it a subtle hint of elegance in an otherwise standardised design. This will admittedly not be everyone’s cup of tea as I know there are plenty who would prefer a more rugged and simple utilitarian design, but for someone like me who enjoys hints of elegance and finesse in whatever category of watch, this dial is quite a standout in its category once you’ve taken a good look at it.

The date window on this watch is also well positioned and well finished. It features beveled edges and a printed white frame and sits right where the 3 o’clock marker would’ve been. I can’t really say the same for the 42mm version though as it appears to have cut corners by reusing the same sized date wheel on a larger dial putting it in a rather awkward position. Definitely not the end of the world but the 38mm has it down much better.

Lume on this watch is, well, present. Often criticised for being poor, I would say it is just about useable at best. Although it is using Super-Luminova applied to the syringe hands and hour markers, it is surprisingly dim and does leave you wishing for more.

Movement
Powering the watch is the H10 movement. Being part of the Swatch Group gives Hamilton access to the proven ETA selection of movements at a lower cost and the H10 is basically a lightly decorated ETA C07 movement with a custom Hamilton rotor. 

Older models of the Khaki Field Auto were supplied with the popular ETA 2824-2 movement but this has since been replaced by their latest revision, the ETA C07.611. This movement is yet another controversial “upgrade” where ETA appears to have upgraded their 2824-2 by introducing changes and modifications that some might actually consider a downgrade of the original design.

The C07 basically doubled the power reserve to 80 hours, in part by reducing the beat rate from 28,800bph down to 21,600bph. It also introduced a new escapement design that requires special laser equipment to regulate, making it nearly impossible to self-regulate without the new equipment. The advantage of doing all this however is that you get a factory regulated movement that maintains its accuracy much better than the previous design.

At this point it is entirely personal taste whether you prefer a higher beat rate or a longer power reserve and the ability to regulate the movement yourself. In any case, Hamilton isn’t selling anymore 2824-2 based watches so you’re going to have to either go used or search around for fast depleting new old stock if you prefer the older movement.

I personally don’t mind it either way and I am getting a very consistent +8spd on mine which I’m pretty satisfied with.

Bracelet
The Khaki Field Auto comes on either a stainless steel bracelet or a leather strap. I actually went through quite some effort to obtain mine on the bracelet, literally driving from one end of the island to the other as they were somehow in short supply at the time. 

From far the bracelet looks like a 3 link style design. However if you look closer, the middle links are actually split right down the middle making it very reminiscent of the old style hollow link bracelets. Of course because of this, not everyone is a fan of this design which tends to be another common point of criticism. I was skeptical at first too but I did want to get the full experience of this bracelet, and I’ve lived to tell the tale.

Looks aside, what Hamilton has achieved with this 4 link design is a very comfortable and supple feeling bracelet. This bracelet really drapes and forms over your wrist just because of how supple it is. Together with the light weight and slim profile of the watch, this is easily one of the most comfortable watches I’ve ever worn. Even just placing it on the table you can see how the bracelet melts into itself.

We also get a fully milled clasp which even after the price increases this year, is still a pretty good value I feel. Unfortunately this clasp is also polished, like the bezel, and it is a huge scratch magnet. Over time though the scratches do accumulate and become part of the character of the watch. Again, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Final thoughts
So why is this watch a grail of mine or basically just a must have in my collection? Well for one I really love its history and where it was derived from, but what really does it for me is how fit for purpose it really is while also looking quite dressy at the same time. Of course not to be compared with a G-Shock, but for an automatic watch it really handles rough work and activity like the marketing suggests, and it does so in style.

The quality of the watch is also really impressive, even after the price increases in my opinion. Yes you could get a Seiko or an Orient for quite a bit less, and while you could get one of those with a comparable level of finishing and movement quality, you’d also be paying very close to what the Hamilton costs, if not more. 

The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm is a very versatile watch that could easily form a one watch collection and I would definitely recommend it to almost anyone looking for something that can be worn almost anywhere at anytime.